 Craig StoltzThe Washington Post |
Craig Stoltz: Hello again, everyone, and thanks for tuning into our weekly travel chatorama. This week I'm joined by, sweating lightly at my right elbow, John Deiner, a travel editor and staff Disneyologist. Those of you who read yesterday's section know that John and I recently went to Walt Disney World in Orlando. John went during the least crowded week of the year (right after Thanksgiving); I went the most crowded week of the year (between Christmas and New Year's), so we've both got fresh snoutsful of mouse whiskers.
First, to state the obvious: If you're an adult going without kids, don't even consider going any time when kids are out of school. That immediately means you'll find only adults, parents with pre-schoolers and truants. So the chances of being overwhelmed by kids are smaller.
As for the adultish attractions: Deiner says Epcot's World Showcase has lots of bars, cafes and whatnot for adults to hang out. Adults appreciate the MGM Studios attractions more than kids do (and recall, if you're obeying the rule above, most preschoolers will be at Magic Kingdom). Pleasure Island, near Downtown Disney, is a place where everynight is New Year's Eve--fireworks, dancing in the streets, etc. I'm told that one nightclub at Downtown Disney was actually closed down because it was attracting "bad elements"--a funny thought for a Disney property, but at least there's some evidence that it's not all squeaky-clean.
Bethesda, MD: Hello,I have been to Florida before but not Walt Disney. I plan to go there this summer in August with my 4-year old son. Are there any package deals during that time of year or hotels/information that you could recommend?
Craig Stoltz: Travel agents and airlines may have seasonal deals, but frankly, you're planning a trip during one of the park's busiest times, so chances of discounts then are few (Disney does what it can to balance crowds by offering incentives during off-season times). I'm told that, if you must go in August, choose the last week, as crowds have tapered then. If money's tight, check MetroJet airfares; it's USAir's low-fare carrier, and Orlando's a major route.
Vienna,VA: Follow up to my question concerning a 5 year old and 2.5 year old, is the Animal Kingdom appropriate to our kids' ages?
Craig Stoltz: If your 2.5 is brave, the Safari is a hoot. The boat ride around the park is low-stress and sort of colorful; there's a nature walk around an aviary and you see gorillas and hippos, behind glass, swimming. The Maharaja trail is essentially a zoo and easy on a toddler; the dinosaur-digging playground will be nice for them. But note: the trails all through the park are bumpy and narrow; I'd choose a backpack, if you have that option, rather than a stroller.
Vienna,VA: My wife and I are taking our 5 year old girl and 2.5 year old boy to Florida in mid-February. Any suggestions on what to do for the 2 days we'll be in Orlando?
Craig Stoltz: Universal Studios, says Deiner, features long lines and short attractions compared to Disney, and many are designed to thrill teens (meaning they can be a bit much for small kids). So I'd skip Universal and head to Sea World (if you haven't had the pleasure elsewhere).
Gaithersburg, Maryland: We're planning our
trip Feb. 25 - March 3.
Any recommendations on
which of the 4 days to
go into the parks - -
Friday, Sat, Sun, Mon, Tues
are our choices
Craig Stoltz: Says Deiner, instantly: "Sunday!" Frequently the best day, as it's the biggest in/out day for most guests; the parks are less crowded. Aside from that, most of the days you cite are pretty crowded. Go early. Pack water. Plan a list of the two or three must-dos and then settle for whatever else you can get. Hey, it's the Disney way!
Silver Spring MD: If I plan to visit at a busy time-college spring break time-is it worth the extra money to stay on the premises in order to get into the park early? Do you have any recommendations for kid-friendly accomodations?
Craig Stoltz: It's especially important to stay on-campus during busy times, since you get early access to one park per day, plus the traffic, crowds, etc. won't bother you as much. Says veteran Deiner: "Head directly for the rear of the resort when you enter, and work your way forward. That way you're working against the crowds."
new york, new york: Is there a Disney Cruise? How much is it and where does it leave from?
Craig Stoltz: The Disney Magic sails out of Port Canaveral, to the Disney island in the Bahamas, on 3 and 4 day itineraries. Originally they were sold just as add-ons to resort stays, but now you can buy them a la carte. We haven't had a reporter go, but I've heard mixed stuff, especially from adults who are seeking an adult experience. Apparently for kids, it's a great cruise. Don't know about prices, but I'm told agents have some good deals now, especially during non-school-break times, since they are having a hard time selling berths for those sailings.
Washington, D.C.: Is there any difference between Disney Land in Anaheim and Disney World? Does Disney have the same extended network of parks and resorts in southern California?
Craig Stoltz: Says Deiner: Disneyland is great; it has all the charm if its age. Everything there was the first of its kind.
But: It's only one park, essentially the Magic Kingdom part of WDW. They are currently planning to expand, and there are plans for them to do a California World park, about the local environment aroud there, to complement it. Unlike WDW, you can easily, happily do DW in a day. You need 2 days to 2 years to do WDW properly.
Oceanside, NY: Which is the better bus tour of the Kennedy Space Center (I understand there are 2 to choose from)
Craig Stoltz: Says John: Take the long tour. Why? It's definately worth the added time--you get to tour all three attractions in the space center, including the new Saturn facility (which features that enormous Saturn rocket mounted in the middle of the building).
Arlington, VA: How does Animal Kingdom stack up compared to the other Disney parks?
Craig Stoltz: John: I don't think you get your money's worth, at least for the time being (the park is still being built). There are fewer attractions, so if it's really crowded you're out of luck.
Craig: There are some really ingenious details: the african village is shockingly detailed and convincing; the Maharaja trail contructions create a truly exotic environment. But yes, for now there's less to do, and the crowds are overwhelming.
John: Tough to be a Bug movie, shown in the Tree of Life, is by far the best 3-D movie among Disney's many attempts.
Gaithersburg, MD: What are your favorite
attractions in Epcot Center
for 3 & 6 year olds?
Craig Stoltz: I went with two boys, ages 8 and 6, and we got an incredible bang just sort of strolling the international pavilions; most have dancers, singers, some sort of show, along with mini museums. We also rode a simple, largely unpopular ride in an exhibit called The Land, but it was just charming with its Disneyesque wacky, mid-century futurism and earnestness. Almost heartbreakingly sweet and entertaining.
The boys also loved Honey I Shrunk the Audience, a knockout 3-D movie. (the related Imaginations ride, currently being updated, is also great for kids) Lots of artistic grace notes amuse kids visually. The Maelstrom ride in the Norway pavilion mixes thrills with, yes, trolls.
Arlington, Va.: After the fiasco over their planned park in Manassas, Va., does Disney have plans to build a history-themed resort elsewhere?
Craig Stoltz: Not that we've heard, and we're both amateur Disney rumor collectors. Anybody out there hear of Disney plans, aside from (rumor mill) the California World in LA and, maybe, a second (god help us) EuroDisney?
Ashburn, VA: Would you say that winter break is a worse time to do Disney than summer? How far in advance should you start planning?
Craig Stoltz: On the theory that August in central Florida is hell without the charm, I'd vote for Winter. Yes, Disney has lots of cooling stations that spray you to prevent heat stroke, but I don't know what people are thinking, aside perhaps about creative and expensive punishment, when they take children to central Florida in August.
Reston, VA: I have been thinking of proposing a trip to my pre-teen neice and nephew, but I fear they may have outgrown Disney World (having never been there myself). Please help me save face, here...at what age do you begin to see diminishing returns -- in terms of amusement level?
Craig Stoltz: Despite Disney hype, you're right; the experience can diminish for teens. The three water parks (blizzard Beach is the biggest), the sports area and Downtown Disney are all designed to appeal to teens. Get a resort with a pool; the waterslides (I speak with only slight shame) can keep adults occupied for hours. There is some neat techno-stuff scattered around, mostly in Epcot and MGM. Teens will love the Tower of Terror, the best and most vomitous ride at Disney, though neither of us have been on Test Track, which is also supposed to be hot stuff for teens. John sez: They'll be bored out of their minds by the "educational" stuff (i.e., futureworld) at Epcot; most stuff at Best Buy can compete with that vision of the future.
Merrick, NY: Do you recommend adults visiting Cypress Gardens while in the Orlando area?
Craig Stoltz: I was at Cypress Gardens about 30 years ago, as a kid. From what I recall, and what I'm told, it's a ride on the wayback machine: sweet, beautiful gardens, nice water ski show, glass bottom boat. If the hypey, hurley burly of Disney/Universal has no appeal, yes, head to Cypress Gardens. A lot of adults love it there; kids will have their eyes on the gate.
Fairfax, VA: Looking to go to Cancun in May for 4 nights, 5 days. We'd like to keep it under $1000 per couple for everything. Any recommendations? Is it too late to book for Memorial Day weekend? Would it be more cost effective to plan for another weekend?
Craig Stoltz: $1,000 for Cancun for a couple will be hard to do. One of our greatest contributors, Bill Heavey, just undertook a search of precisely what you describe (though he ruled out Cancun for reasons of too-easy). He wound up at Cozumel, and spent $750 per person for a week, meals not included (but an oddly generous $43 per day drink credit). GoGo Tours and Apple Vacations, both big wholesalers that sell via travel agents, have plenty of Cancun stuff available. At the risk of sounding self-serving, check out the ads in the Travel section, as both companies have big displays with deep discounts and tiny asterisks. Read the fine print. And no, it's not too late for Memorial Day, but rates will indeed be higher. If you can go a week before or after, do it.
Alexandria, VA: What is the address of the website where you can make offers to purchase airline tickets for a particular trip and get an acceptance or refusal?
Craig Stoltz: You speak of priceline.com, which frankly I'm not a big fan of. It's rare that I hear of people getting serious deals below what a consolidator or even a few numbing hours on the Web can produce. Plus, you can't choose your time of flight. Once you make a bid, you're stuck with what they give you, if they give you anything. No one on our staff, and several of us have tried, has ever gotten a ticket we've bid on.
Somewhere, USA: Can you recommend any beach or desert resorts that can pamper parents and accomodate a two-year old toddler?
Craig Stoltz: I've been to Jamaica's FDR Resort, which provides a dedicated Vacation Nanny (!) to each suite. It's pricey, and you'll probably want to stay on campus (like most Jamaica resorts, frankly), but if you want sun and pampering, it's a good shot.
Arlington, VA: What about some of the Washington area theme parks...which of those do you recommend? Which has the best amusement/price ratio?
Craig Stoltz: Adventure World, in Largo, has long been the stepchild and has had to keep prices down (though they've been bought by Six Flags). They offer both water park and amusement rides and, I'm told, some neck-snapping roller coasters. Good value there, especailly for such a short drive.
Vienna, VA: When you're totally Mickey-ed out after the first day, what would you recommend doing in the Greater Disney World area? What does Orlando have to offer?
Craig Stoltz: Frankly, neither of us have much experinece. But the Kennedy Space Center is only 45 mintues away, and Cypress Gardens, near Tampa, is a good chill out place. The Travel Section did a story by a Florida corresponent about a charming little townette in Orlando called (we think, Orchard Park? Ocean something? Ah, the perils of real-time. . . .) Anyway, it's got the expected nice little shops, town park, playground, cafes, etc. It's what Orlando was before The Fall. That's the most highly recommended mouse-chiller in town.
Washington, D.C.: Whatever became of Disney's planned community? Can you visit there as a tourist?
Craig Stoltz: Celebration is indeed open and selling homes; you can visit but there's little more to see that you'd see by visiting Kentlands in Gaithersburg (our local anachronistic, American small-town retro-hip neighborhood). There are some restaurants, but again, it's strictly local fare, no destination-quality stuff.
Alexandria, Va.: Disney: Wholesome purveyor of well-packaged family fun or nefarious corporate conglomerate seeking to brainwash your children to buy their products?
Craig Stoltz: Yes.
Craig Stoltz: Winter Park is the name of the charming townette in Orlando. Thanks and a tip o the fez to Carolyn Brown, who just helped us out.
Laurel, Md.: I'll be making my Disney trip in June with a 6-year-old and a 4-year-old.
I know food is expensive. Any tips? Someone I know suggested filling up with a big breakfast, which is generally a cheaper meal, and then eating lightly at dinner.
Craig Stoltz: Most resorts have places where you can buy carry-out stuff, which saves you 40 percent or so compared to Disney restaurant prices, which are absurdly high. Others pack in their own food; if you have a rental car (not necessary for a Disney trip, as shuttles connect all the parks and get you to and from the airport), you can find a grocery store within about 20 minutes and load up. Best strategy: Breakfast in the room, gets you out early and saves one meal. Says Deiner: If you win the yodeling contest at Epcot's German pavilion, you get a free meal at the German smorgasbord!
Arlington: My wife bought an internet airline ticket for $198 to Dallas several weeks in advance. She left on Saturday and is returning on Tuesday. In the last moment she persuaded me to come along. So we called American to book a seat on the same departing/returning flight. Our plans changed when American informed us that it would cost $1300. This was NOT a first class seat either. So here is the question: Why is there such a massive gap between "advance paid, internet airfares" and "day of" purchases? Upon arriving in Dallas my wife told me that the flight was practically empty. What gives. I would have paid $100 more, but $1100 more than what she paid, forget about it!
Craig Stoltz: Glad to take a break from Disney questions to speak of that other great commerical menace blotting the travel landscape, airfares. Airlines punish people who fly at the last minute because it assumes they are business travelers, who presumably have to get to a meeting and will pay even laughable prices to do it; corporate budgets can usually acommodate such things. The lines distinguish between business and leisure strictly on the basis of how far in advance the ticket is purchased and the restrictions it carries. This may be crazy. It may be unfair. But it is the mechanism for keeping leisure fares low. We in steerage are essentially flying for $250 in most cases because the plane is full of business flyers who have paid 3 or 4 times as much.
By my tastes, I prefer Southwest and a few other lines' systems, where the discrepancies between fares are narrower. The best solution: Patronize SW and other budget carriers. USAir certainly got the message, and has created flatter-fare Metrojet, offering more and cheaper service to East Coast leisure flyers.
Washington, DC: My family (8 adults) are going to Disney World the beginning of Dec. What should we expect from the weather?
Any suggestions on what 8 adults should do? Four of us still enjoy the night life, but the other 4 will go to bed early.
Craig Stoltz: John (same period last year): Gorgeous. Sunny days, high around 80. Chilly at night. Light jacket weather.
Craig (Xmas week): Even nicer for us; we swam in the (heated) pool each day.
Washington, DC: We have no kids and would like to visit Disney World at a time of year when the weather is warm enough to lie around an unheated swimming pool but also at a time when the crowds and, hence the lines, are not overwhelming. Any suggestions?
Craig Stoltz: See yesterday's paper; we published a chart showing crowds (I think the chart's on the Web too). After Easter and before Memorial Day is your answer. John did it once and proclaimed the parks "deserted."
Fairfax, VA: Is Port Orleans as cheesy as the article says? I'm booked in there, starting Thursday. Should I bail?
Craig Stoltz: John says: Hey, I wrote it, you think I'm going to change my story now? No, really, for $119 he expected more. Biggest complaints: claustrophic, sub-Disney-quality grounds, very plain.
Bethesda MD: I'm travelling to Charleston SC next month, by myself for a little R & R. I'd like to stay in a true Bed and Breakfast, hosted by a local family, not one of these extravagant, expensive romantic inns. Isn't there a national network for such places? I'd like to find something low key, within walking distance to either one of the rivers or the ocean.
Craig Stoltz: First, let me say, we're about to sign off. I know we spent most of our time dealing with Disney questions, and we have lots more we couldn't get to. We hope you folks will turn in next week. Meantime, this answer:
Check out www.bbchannel.com. It's a good clearinghouse of B&B's sophisticated enough to market on the Web; it's our standard recommendation for finding BBs in the U.S. Please let us know whether it helped you.
Again, thanks for joining us, and we'll see you next week, same time, same URL. Next week's topic: Spa and health getaways.
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